Sunday, May 9, 2010

Geisha Dress-Up

Sunday afternoon in Kyoto was my geisha-dress-up experience. Fuminori asked Scott a few weeks before we left if I wanted to dress up like a geisha. I agreed, assuming he was joking. He wasn't. I wasn't not really looking forwad to playing dress-up but it ended up being a lot of fun.

We went to the geisha area of Kyoto. The streets were very narrow, resembling alleyways more than two-way roads. The only sign of modernity was the electrical wires runing above every building.



Dressing up like a geisha is a popular tourist experience. I did so at at costume rental shop. The dress and make-up process was quite elaborate. I first changed it a pink under-robe and geisha socks (separating the big toe from the others - for the wooden sandal). Then it was hair and make-up time. My attendant put my hair in a ponytail and covered it completely with a hairnet. Then she started putting on the makeup by painting 3 white stripes on the back of my neck. I thought it was odd that skin was purposely left clear. I'm not sure if that's authentic or not. I have read some accounts that say that it is a traditional style, but only for certain types of geiko. Next she covered my face, including my eyebrows and neck, in white makeup. She re-did my eyebrows in a reddish brown pencil and put on eye-shadow blush. My lips were painted bright red. I then stood up for her to put on my wig. It was heavy with loads of dark brown hair done up in knots and adorned with fake flowers and a silver hangy-thing that looks like a wind-chime.



The kimono was next. I had about a dozen kimonos to choose from: purple, pink, orange, light blue, dark blue, etc. I chose a light blue robe with pretty flowers. But the actual robe was many steps away. First they put on a red flowered under-robe (Nagajuban). Then they tied several tight belts (Datejime) around my waist. The actual kimono came on. There was lots of fabric at the sleeve and the kimono had to be folded just so.

Once the robe was on, it was time to put on the obi, the elaborate belt. They tied a white towel around my waist with two ropes (a cheap obiita). This made the belt look bigger. The towel was covered with the Obi and finished with a decorative wooden buckle (obijime). The bustle in the back was a huge piece of golden fabric (tesaki). It was secured by a metal hanger. I don't think that's the authentic way to do it; traditionally, I think, volume was created by the folds of fabric.

The ensemble was heavy and tight - it was hard to take a full breath. But if you removed a few layers I can see how it would be comfortable. I walked downstairs carefully (the robes were long) and met Scott, Fuminori, and his family in a little room with decorative screens. We took lots of pictures. The package we bought included two professional pictures. I posed sitting and standing with an umbrella. They made me smile with my mouth closed, which makes me look stupid...but the white make-up makes teeth look yellow so I kept my mouth shut. After the professional pictures, we went outside to pose in the courtyard and entryway. I wore wooden sandals (geta) which sloped at the top. I kept thinking I was going to fall forward. After the millionth picture, dress-up time was over. I went upstairs to undress and wipe off all the makeup.

Taking the professional pictures:


I look kind of like a cross-dresser from this angle. Luckily the actual professional picture looks slightly better than this

Inside pictures


They need a bigger back drop





Outdoor pictures:





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